Better Home & Gardens in Cornwall

When we planned our trip to Cornwall I was aware that there were a few gardens and some homes to be seen.  What I didn't account for was the fact that there are so many homes and gardens to be seen.  Since looking at other people's homes and gardens isn't one of Taylor's favorite occupations I planned that we would go see two.  Well, our guide David took us to two estates, I planned an additional two, and then we went to London.

Lanhydrock
This National Trust home is Cornwall's most complete Victorian country home (according to the brochure).  It was lovely, and we could have spent more time here.  It was our first though so we knew we would need to pace ourselves. David thought we needed two hours, we said one, and we stayed for one and a half.  Like I said we could spent more time here both inside and in the gardens.

Just what one would expect of a country home.

Country homes need their own chapel.

Of all the rooms in the house, I liked the kitchens best.

I've wondered what clotted cream actually is, and now I have the recipe.

Formal gardens in the front.

Out back, the gardens are more casual.

The thatched cottage behind the house looked like a perfect spot for secret assignations.

Saint Michael's Mount

This is another National Trust home.  We  took a boat to get to it.  When the tide is out you can walk to it on a causeway, much like Mont Saint Michel in France. In early days it was a monastery. The family who lives in it gave it to the National Trust and now lives there with a 999 year lease. We were able to go through the castle, but the grounds are closed one day a week for maintenance so we had to be satisfied with peeking over the battlements.  In any case it was a beautiful day for a boat ride.

The gardens drop right down to the sea.

Here's the chapel.

Caerhays Castle
Caerhays Castle is a hidden gem way off the beaten track.  We went here because a taxi driver told us it is only open ten weeks a year and it was open season now.  He thought it was not to be missed and he was right.  The drive out to the country alone was worth the effort.  This country home is nestled into a hill with the ocean at it's feet.  We went through the home.  People really do live in it, and take money from people like us to be able to afford to live here. It is large, rambling and homey.

Walking up the drive we encountered these guys.  They were very interested in us and marched toward us.  We were happy to get closer to the house and away from them.

The cows are on my right, the ocean behind me and the castle in front of me. The gardens are all behind, filled with rhododendron,  camellias and magnolia.

Lost Garden of Heligan
The final garden we saw in Cornwall is called the Lost Garden of Heligan for a reason.  It was a thriving country home and garden, but during World War I most of it's gardening staff went to war and didn't come back.  The grounds slowly slipped into neglect, the home was eventually sold to be divided into flats and the gardens were forgotten. In 1992, by chance, a hidden door was discovered under the brambles.  Further exploration revealed the bones of the garden that had once been spectacular.  In the last 25 years the gardens have slowly been uncovered and reconstructed.  A magical story and a magical place.

These green houses were hidden under brambles.

This is it for homes and gardens in Cornwall.  We thought Taylor would get a break, but............there are more homes gardens in London.

Murder and Mayhem

On our second night in Padstow, Taylor and I walked to the village and had a lovely dinner at Rick Stein's Cafe.  As we started to stroll back to Treverbyn House I had the urge to wander a bit among the winding lanes that make up Padstow.  Taylor, worried I was going to take him on a forced march, went alone back to our room.  

As I looked up one narrow lane some open black gates caught my attention.  Naturally I had to go see what was through them.  As I got closer, I heard singing.  As I stepped through the gates in the twilight I realized I was in a church cemetery. The singing I heard was choir practice in session.

Choir music was seeping from these windows and filling the twilight.

I enjoyed the sight and sound of that special moment, and then my imagination interrupted.  It occurred to me that in Midsommer Murders, or in Morse, when a person walks into a church yard there is usually a dead body already there, or the person who is doing the walking is about to become the dead body.

What to do?  Stay?  Or go?

I looked around a little bit telling myself that I wasn't in a TV show, and then I nonchalantly walked back through those gates and found my way back to Treverbyn House.  You never can tell about these quaint English villages, after all. I went back to my room and to my book, Elizabeth George's  A Banquet of Consequences.  I wonder if I should change my reading and TV choices?

Rambles on the Coast Path

As you can see from this map, the Cornwall Coast Path goes along the coastal borders of this part of England. Parts of it are easy walking paths, parts of it are treacherous and challenging.  People actually walk parts, or all, of the path for vacations.  The trails follow bluffs, cross beaches, go over hills and pastures, and even go through towns, and sometimes on busy roads. We were lucky to take three different small hikes when we were in Cornwall. The first walk was from Padstow heading Northeast (I've marked the map in black at our starting points).  The second and third walks were from Charlestown, first heading South, and the next day heading Northeast.  

Padstow to Hawker's Cove

 It was a windy day, but much of the walk was in wooded areas so the wind wasn't a problem for us.

The beach was breathtaking - literally.

 

We managed to climb over stiles, and we went through some kissing gates as well.  The path is well marked so there was no issue of getting lost.

When we got to Hawkers Cove we found a very tiny hamlet and it had a Tea Garden!

The Tea Garden is up this path to the left.  It's actually in the back of someone's house.

On the way back to Padstow, kite surfers were out on the water - can you see the red and blue kite in the sky?

Being in a village full of tourists we looked for more of a local bar for our post hike pint.  We found it.

And we enjoyed our local pint.

Charlestown to the South

The harbor village of Charlestown is about 4 coves from the left.  Until now most of this walk was sheltered woodland.  We are about to start walking through steep sheep grazing fields.

We just emerged from these woods.  Some of the sheep are on a distant hill.

I am about halfway up a very steep hill.  The picture doesn't begin to do justice to the steepness.

I finally made it to the top.  The reason the grass looks like it might have a drop off is because it does!  Just think, I'm going to have to go down this to get back home.

After making it up the very steep sheep hill we had to go up and down a few flights of steps.  Taylor counted 167 steps on this one.

We made it back to Charlestown unscathed, even after going up and down multiple steep hills and treacherous stairs.  Charleston Harbor looks so safe and inviting.

Did I mention Poldark yet?  This is where the town scenes are filmed.

Charlestown to the Northeast
Today's hike was very different from the previous two hikes.  This time we walked for a long distances at the top of a cliff and next to a golf course.  I couldn't believe they allow walkers on the golf course, but glad we got to be there.  The beach scenes as usual were spectacular. As we neared our destination of the village of Par the scene changed.  Industry!!

We had gotten so used to spectacular beach scenes and sheep pastures that we were unprepared for industry.

We walked into town, found the Yummy Scrummy Bakery and had a wonderful lunch, then turned around to head back to Charlestown.

Taylor approaching the golf course on our way back to Charlestown.

After a day's hike who doesn't deserve a pint?

Further Explorations of South Cornwall

Getting Out of St. Ives
And getting back onto yet another TV location:  Poldark

Our trusty guide David, picked us up for another day of exploration with him behind the wheel.  What could be better in the wilds of Cornwall on a sunny day?  We left St. Ives and headed for Poldark country.  Evidence of tin mining is all over this part of Cornwall.  There are lots of abandoned mines and exhaust towers as well.  We were told we visited the area where the TV series Poldark is filmed.

Ross and Demelza Poldark's home is right behind me.

On location again for the Poldark TV series.

Thank goodness Taylor never had to be a tin miner.  It's such hard and dangerous work - even though the locations are gorgeous.

Crown Mine dipping down into the Atlantic.

If you look closely you can count quite a few abandoned mines.

Scones and clotted cream, with tea of course.  We had these in a little shop selling beach buckets and other beachy sundries - they were delicious. A perfect break in our day of sightseein.

Taylor enjoying the view from the famous Minack Theatre - it's built into the cliffs on the edge of the Atlantic.

All tourists have to have their photo taken at Land's End - the furthest point west on the English isle.

The tide was out in Mousehole (pronounced Mouzelle).

Mousehole.  Can you see the little boys in red playing in the water draining onto the beach?

G & T at the end of a busy day.  This time it's with dried orange slices.