Better Home & Gardens in Cornwall

When we planned our trip to Cornwall I was aware that there were a few gardens and some homes to be seen.  What I didn't account for was the fact that there are so many homes and gardens to be seen.  Since looking at other people's homes and gardens isn't one of Taylor's favorite occupations I planned that we would go see two.  Well, our guide David took us to two estates, I planned an additional two, and then we went to London.

Lanhydrock
This National Trust home is Cornwall's most complete Victorian country home (according to the brochure).  It was lovely, and we could have spent more time here.  It was our first though so we knew we would need to pace ourselves. David thought we needed two hours, we said one, and we stayed for one and a half.  Like I said we could spent more time here both inside and in the gardens.

Just what one would expect of a country home.

Country homes need their own chapel.

Of all the rooms in the house, I liked the kitchens best.

I've wondered what clotted cream actually is, and now I have the recipe.

Formal gardens in the front.

Out back, the gardens are more casual.

The thatched cottage behind the house looked like a perfect spot for secret assignations.

Saint Michael's Mount

This is another National Trust home.  We  took a boat to get to it.  When the tide is out you can walk to it on a causeway, much like Mont Saint Michel in France. In early days it was a monastery. The family who lives in it gave it to the National Trust and now lives there with a 999 year lease. We were able to go through the castle, but the grounds are closed one day a week for maintenance so we had to be satisfied with peeking over the battlements.  In any case it was a beautiful day for a boat ride.

The gardens drop right down to the sea.

Here's the chapel.

Caerhays Castle
Caerhays Castle is a hidden gem way off the beaten track.  We went here because a taxi driver told us it is only open ten weeks a year and it was open season now.  He thought it was not to be missed and he was right.  The drive out to the country alone was worth the effort.  This country home is nestled into a hill with the ocean at it's feet.  We went through the home.  People really do live in it, and take money from people like us to be able to afford to live here. It is large, rambling and homey.

Walking up the drive we encountered these guys.  They were very interested in us and marched toward us.  We were happy to get closer to the house and away from them.

The cows are on my right, the ocean behind me and the castle in front of me. The gardens are all behind, filled with rhododendron,  camellias and magnolia.

Lost Garden of Heligan
The final garden we saw in Cornwall is called the Lost Garden of Heligan for a reason.  It was a thriving country home and garden, but during World War I most of it's gardening staff went to war and didn't come back.  The grounds slowly slipped into neglect, the home was eventually sold to be divided into flats and the gardens were forgotten. In 1992, by chance, a hidden door was discovered under the brambles.  Further exploration revealed the bones of the garden that had once been spectacular.  In the last 25 years the gardens have slowly been uncovered and reconstructed.  A magical story and a magical place.

These green houses were hidden under brambles.

This is it for homes and gardens in Cornwall.  We thought Taylor would get a break, but............there are more homes gardens in London.

Further Explorations of South Cornwall

Getting Out of St. Ives
And getting back onto yet another TV location:  Poldark

Our trusty guide David, picked us up for another day of exploration with him behind the wheel.  What could be better in the wilds of Cornwall on a sunny day?  We left St. Ives and headed for Poldark country.  Evidence of tin mining is all over this part of Cornwall.  There are lots of abandoned mines and exhaust towers as well.  We were told we visited the area where the TV series Poldark is filmed.

Ross and Demelza Poldark's home is right behind me.

On location again for the Poldark TV series.

Thank goodness Taylor never had to be a tin miner.  It's such hard and dangerous work - even though the locations are gorgeous.

Crown Mine dipping down into the Atlantic.

If you look closely you can count quite a few abandoned mines.

Scones and clotted cream, with tea of course.  We had these in a little shop selling beach buckets and other beachy sundries - they were delicious. A perfect break in our day of sightseein.

Taylor enjoying the view from the famous Minack Theatre - it's built into the cliffs on the edge of the Atlantic.

All tourists have to have their photo taken at Land's End - the furthest point west on the English isle.

The tide was out in Mousehole (pronounced Mouzelle).

Mousehole.  Can you see the little boys in red playing in the water draining onto the beach?

G & T at the end of a busy day.  This time it's with dried orange slices.

  

On Location at Portwenn

North Cornwall

You may remember that several years ago Taylor and I attempted to visit Cornwall.  We drove from Exetor through Dartmoor, heading toward Cornwall when we panicked over driving on the wrong side of very narrow roads.  After having a little incident with the rental car we abandoned it in Dartmouth and refused to go further (although we did eventually return the car to the rental agency).

When we determined to come to Cornwall this year, we decided not to rent a car.  Hence the train, and taxi.  However, we wanted to see the area with its multitude of little villages and twisty roads.  I solved the problem of how to do this by hiring a tour guide to drive us around for two days to show us the sights.

David, our guide, picked us up at Treverbyn House in Padstow and off we went.  Taylor was quite excited to enjoy the view without the stress of managing the narrow one track, two lane roads that are lined with hedges disguising stone walls.  The entire day of sightseeing, with all the beautiful scenery and narrow lanes, was quite relaxing when neither of us was in charge.

Many people travel the world to see historic points of interests.  That, after all, is evidence of intelligence and sophistication.  We realized, as we were wandering through Port Isaac that we aren't among those intelligent folk.  We were exploring a TV set!  Port Isaac - Portwenn for all you Doc Martin fans - is a small fishing village extremely charming and filled with tourists.  We were there on a calm day, as filming  happened the day before. Filming brings huge crowds of lookers along with the people and equipment it takes to film a TV show.  And Port Issac looks exactly like Portwenn does on TV. It does not look, from the outside, like fame and fortune has gone to its head.  I wonder if the production company has required that the village make no changes as long as Doc Martin is being produced.  Even the fish store, where the Doc buys his fish, smells to high heaven.  Other than that, the village looks a little shabby but comfortable.  It certainly is in a great location.

The Doc's house is really quite tiny.  I love the dog in my photo - everyone has a dog in Cornwall.

Louisa's school is really a restaurant.

There are lots of charming shops in town.

I was too embarrassed to have Taylor take my picture in front of the Doc's house, so I had him do it in one of the side streets.  I needed proof that I was there.

Isn't it amazing how small Doc Martin's house is?

We tore ourselves from the TV set and drove all along the North Coast.

One of many beaches on the North Coast.  This one is Newquay (pronounced Newkie). It is popular with surfers.

This huer's hut is where the fishermen would take turns standing watch to look for pilchards and herring.  The lookout would give the cry, and all the villagers would run down to the beach with their baskets and nets to bring in the fish. Poldark fans have seen these fishing scenes on TV.

A village, even smaller than Port Issac.

Here's the quay below the house pictured above.

There are so many perfect little quays like this all along the coast. The contrast between the surfing beaches and these little keyhole harbors is quite striking.

The ruins of Tintangel Castle.  This is the setting of the King Arthur legends.

This was our first full day in Cornwall.  We came home to Treverbyn House exhausted and happy.  Of course, the day wouldn't be complete without fish and chips.

Once again we're on TV location.  Rick Stein is a well know TV personality chef and cookbook author.  We ate at two of his restaurants.  He's got a good product.

Taylor is a happy camper:  no driving required, and fish and chips.

European Adventure 2017 - on to England

North Cornwall - Padstow

Reluctantly we said goodbye to our family and friends in Bruxelles and put ourselves on the train  to London. From London we took a second train to Bodmin Parkway.  We are now in North Cornwall!!!!

Our prearranged taxi driver collected us at the station and drove us 19 miles to the fishing village of Padstow on the River Camel where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

I have been fascinated by Cornwall for years.  I suspect my first introduction to Cornwall was the Elizabeth George novels that I love.  Her detective Peter Lynley comes from an estate in Cornwall. Who wouldn't be intrigued by that? Plus, I had further evidence that I might like Cornwall from watching Doc Martin and Poldark on TV.  I'm not proud to admit I came to Cornwall because of murder mysteries and TV shows, but there you have it. What I wasn't prepared for was to fall in love at first sight .  And that is what I did.

Treverbyn House B&B gave us a room with a view.

The weather was spectacular.

The downtown harbor which is a short walk from our B&B was captivating.

There was no opportunity for annoyances.

There is even a tasteful Almshouse - although I think it is now expensive apartments

And, at the end of our introductory ramble we had sherry to sip as the sun set.

With an introduction like this, I'm sure that we will have a great 8 days in Cornwall.